Almost every oversized, overpriced solar quote comes from skipping the first step: knowing your own consumption. Once you have that in kilowatt-hours per day, the rest, panel size, battery size, even whether solar makes sense at all, follows from simple math and your local sun.
Start from energy, not panels
Your electricity bill is the honest starting point. It reports your usage in units (each unit is one kilowatt-hour) and, once you read it properly, shows which appliances drive the total. Add up the daily kWh you want to cover, and you have the demand the system must meet. Not sure of an appliance’s share? The appliance wattage calculator turns watts and hours into daily and monthly kWh.
Peak sun hours change everything
Panels only make full power for part of the day. Peak sun hours, the effective hours of full output your location gets, is the number that separates a system that works in a sunny country from one that stalls in winter. A sunny area averages around five; use a lower figure for the worst months so you are not caught short.
From demand to panel and battery size
Divide your daily energy by your peak sun hours to get the rough panel size in kilowatts, then add 25 to 30 percent for real-world losses in panels, wiring, and the inverter. The battery is sized separately, from how much of that daily energy you need to carry through the dark hours, and from the usable depth of your chosen chemistry.
Guides in this section
How much solar do you need to beat load-shedding?
Size your panels and battery from your real daily energy use, without the sales pressure.
6 min read · Updated
How to read your electricity bill (and cut it)
Units, tariff slabs, and the appliances driving your bill, plus how to bring it down.
6 min read · Updated