Topic hub

Batteries: chemistry, usable capacity, and system voltage

The inverter decides how much you can run. The battery decides how long it lasts. This hub covers how backup batteries really behave, so you buy the right capacity and the right chemistry once, and get the years you paid for.

A battery’s label rating is not the energy you get to use. Two rules, depth of discharge and the losses of real-world drain, cut the usable figure well below the number on the box. Understanding those, then choosing a chemistry and a system voltage to match your load, is the whole game.

Usable capacity is the number that matters

You cannot drain a battery to empty without damaging it. Flooded and tubular lead-acid banks are capped at roughly 50 percent depth of discharge; lithium (LiFePO4) safely reaches 80 to 90 percent. So a nominally identical 150 Ah battery gives you about 75 Ah of usable capacity in tubular but around 135 Ah in lithium. When you size a bank, work from usable capacity, never the label. The battery backup time calculator builds this in for you.

Chemistry: tubular, AGM, and lithium

Tubular lead-acid is cheap, forgiving, and heavy, but you use only half of it and it lasts three to five years. AGM and gel are sealed and maintenance-free with similar usable depth. Lithium costs more up front, but you use most of it, it lasts eight to fifteen years, and it barely cares how fast you drain it. Spread over its life, lithium is often the cheaper choice per usable kWh.

Ventilation matters for lead-acid Flooded and tubular batteries vent hydrogen while charging, which is explosive at just 4 percent in air. They must live in a ventilated space away from any spark or switch. Sealed AGM, gel, and lithium do not have this problem.

System voltage keeps the current sane

The same power moves with far less current at a higher voltage, and current is what forces thick, costly cable and wastes energy as heat. Small systems run at 12V, mid-size at 24V, and anything 3 kVA and up should use 48V. Because cable loss rises with the square of current, moving from 12V to 48V cuts that loss to a fraction.

See how long your bank lasts Enter your battery and load into the battery backup time calculator to get a realistic runtime, with depth of discharge and losses factored in.

Guides in this section

FAQ

Common battery questions

How much of a battery can I actually use?

Not all of it. Flooded and tubular lead-acid batteries should not go below about 50 percent charge. Lithium (LiFePO4) can safely give up 80 to 90 percent. That usable share, not the label rating, decides your real backup time.

Is lithium worth the extra money over tubular?

Often yes, over its life. Lithium lets you use most of its capacity, lasts three to five times longer, and barely loses energy under heavy loads. It costs more up front but frequently works out cheaper per usable kWh over the years.

Should I choose 12V, 24V, or 48V?

Match the system voltage to the size of the load. Under about 1,000 watts, 12V is fine. From 1,000 to 2,000 watts, use 24V. Above that, or any 3 kVA and larger system, use 48V so the current, and the cable, stay manageable.